THE LESSON

End posts go in first. Always. End posts anchor the whole run. Get these right and the rest follows. Get them wrong and you'll fight the whole job.

Confirm the fence line.

Walk it with the customer if you haven't already. Mark out where each end post sits with a peg or paint.

If the fence line is unclear. Boundary disputes, no survey pegs, neighbours not home. STOP. Don't guess. Ring me. A fence put up on the wrong line is a fence we'll be ripping out and rebuilding at our cost. Worth a phone call.

Dig the two end-post holes.

Hole depth and width depend on fence height. Standard 247 specs:

• 1.2m fence: 600mm deep, 200mm wide
• 1.5m fence: 600mm deep, 200mm wide
• 1.8m fence: 600mm deep, 200mm wide
• 2.1m and over: 700mm minimum, 200mm wide
• Gate posts: 600-800mm, 200mm wide

Cylinder holes only. 200mm diameter. Auger if you can, hand-dug if you can't.

Plumb both end posts. Set in concrete.

Rapid set bag plus water plus pack. The full method is in the next lesson.

Why the end posts FIRST?

Once both end posts are set, you've got two solid points to run string lines between. The whole job runs off these two posts. They're the anchors. Without them set in concrete, you've got nothing to reference.

Lesson 3.2

Concrete the Posts (Rapid Set)

THE LESSON

Rapid set is our standard concrete for fence posts. Done right, you can dig, set, and move on in 20 minutes. Done wrong, the post is loose in 6 months and we're back fixing it.

The 5 steps. In order.

1. Post in. Plumb it roughly.

Stand the post in the hole. Hold it plumb by eye. Doesn't have to be perfect yet. We'll fine-tune after the concrete goes in.

2. Bag in. Dry mix straight into the hole.

Tip the bag in. Don't pre-mix in a bucket. We mix it in the hole. Rapid set is designed for this. Mixing in the hole saves you a step and a bucket to clean.

Pack it hard with crowbars. Drops the water down, pushes the air out, sets the post in position. Post should be sitting 1-2mm off the string line or just kissing it. Don't push 3mm hard into the string at every post. That's how you get a curved fence. Just barely kissing it.

3. Water on top. About 2 litres per 20kg bag.

Pour slowly. Let it soak in. Don't drown it.

Too much water equals weak set. Too little water equals chalky, crumbly. The sweet spot is 2L per bag. Top up if you see dry patches.

4. Pack with a bar. Plumb on both sides.

Tamp the concrete tight with a digging bar. This pushes the mix down into the gaps around the post.

Then check plumb both ways with the level. Both ways. Front-to-back AND side-to-side. Fix it now while the concrete is still wet.

5. Move on. Sets in 15-20 mins.

Don't sit there watching it. Don't keep checking. Crack on with the next post. By the time you're back, this one's set.

Don't bump the post for 20 minutes after setting. That's the rule. A bump while it's curing means a wonky post forever.

Heavy gate posts?

Rapid set still works. But pour the concrete DEEPER into the surrounding soil for extra hold. Stops the post levering out over years from the gate's weight. We'll cover this more in the gates lesson.

THE LESSON

End posts are in. Concrete is curing. Now we run the bottom string line.

The bottom string does two jobs. It gives us the bottom rail height. Where the bottom of the fence sits all the way along. And it shows us the transitions. Where the ground changes height.

Tie tight at one end post.

About 50mm above ground level. Tight as a guitar string.

Walk to the other end post. Tie off tight.

Both ends at the same height off the ground.

Walk the line. Look for transitions.

This is the bit most fencers skip. Walk the string slowly. Look at where it sits relative to the ground:

• Ground steps UP under the line = paling will be shorter here. Not a problem.
• Ground drops AWAY from the line = sleeper zone. We need to retain.
• Ground hits the line = the line is too low, lift it 50mm.

Mark every transition with a stake or paint. Don't try to remember them. By post 12 you'll have forgotten about post 3.

Why this matters.

Transitions are where mistakes happen. If you don't spot a sleeper zone now, you'll find out about it when you're trying to install rails and there's a 200mm gap to the ground. Then you're improvising in the middle of the day, which means slower work and a worse result.

Spot transitions in 10 minutes of walking. Plan the fix into the install. Move on.

Important: the bottom string comes OFF before we dig the middle post.

Don't worry about that yet. Next few lessons cover it. For now, just know that the bottom string is up to find transitions. Then it'll come down again. Then it'll go back up between THREE posts. There's a reason for the sequence. We'll get there.

Lesson 3.4

Caterpillar Set-Out

THE LESSON

Bottom string line is up. Transitions are marked. Now we set out the post centres.

Most crews use a tape measure. Roll it out, mark every 2.4m, dig there. Slow. Easy to misread. Easy to drift off line.

We don't measure. The rail IS the tape measure.

Grab 2 rails. Start at the end post.

Boys call it the Caterpillar. Boys call it the LeapFrog. Whatever name you use, it's the same trick.

Lay rail 1 flat on the ground, against the end post. Spray a line at the far end of the rail.

Spray BETWEEN as well.

Mark both ends of the rail with spray. That's the next post centre.

Lift the rail. Leapfrog it 10mm past the last spray.

10mm gap between where rail 1 finished and where it now starts. Spray the new far end. Lay a good 400-500mm spray line on the ground so you can still see it after digging starts. Don't spray it on finished surfaces though, that's permanent.

That 10mm gap matters. It's the expansion gap that ends up in the finished fence. We're doing two jobs at once. Setting out posts AND building in the expansion gap.

Repeat down the fence line.

The rail walks itself along. The spray marks become your dig points.

Once the spray is on the ground, you CAN'T get the set-out wrong. The rail did the math for you.

Rail length depends on the supplier. Check the docket.

• Oxworks Colorbond: 2410mm
• Ourtown Colorbond: 2370mm
• Timber (typical): 2390mm. For timber we mark 2390 on the rail, then 4780mm (double), and we spray each mark on the ground.

CHECK the docket. Suppliers change. Rail lengths change. Don't assume.

Note on stock vs working lengths: Stock comes off the truck at 2400 (Oxworks) and 2365 (Ourtown). The 10mm gap each side is your fitting tolerance baked into the working measurement. Work to 2410 and 2370. Cut sleepers off the working length, not the stock length.

Lesson 3.5

Dodge the Old Post Holes

THE LESSON

This lesson is for STRIP-OUTS only. Brand new fence on virgin ground? Skip this lesson.

If we're replacing an old fence, the old footings are still in the ground. We learned in Chapter 2 (Lesson 2.4) to cut the old footings flush 50mm below ground level. They're still down there, doing nothing. Concrete blocks of nothing.

But if we set out new posts in the SAME spots, we're trying to dig new holes through old concrete. Slow. Wrecks blades. Weakens the new post's hold. Better to plan around them than dig through.

Walk the line. Spot the old post positions.

Look at where the old posts WERE. The dirt around them might be looser. There might be marks where the post met the ground. Use the spray marks from your caterpillar set-out. Are they landing on old post positions?

If YES, we've got two options.

Option A. Start from the OTHER end.

The old fence started at one end. We start from the other. Caterpillar runs backwards. Post centres land in different spots. New posts dodge the old footings. This is the go-to first option.

Option B. Shift the start point.

Move the first post centre over 700mm or so. Caterpillar runs the same way, just offset. All centres now land in clean ground.

Option C. The 3100mm rail trick.

Worst case, grab a 3100mm rail for the first run instead of a standard 2410 (or 2370 or 2390). Shifts ALL post centres 700mm down the line. Save this one for hidden surprises. Old footings you didn't see until you started digging.

Why this matters structurally.

Two reasons we want to leave old footings undisturbed:

1. Old concrete is hard. Digging through it is slow and breaks augers.
2. The ground AROUND an old footing has been compacted for years. Disturbing it weakens the new post's hold. New post in clean undisturbed ground equals stronger fence.

Plan around the old footings. Don't dig through them.

Lesson 3.6

Middle Post First

THE LESSON

Here's where the 247 install order surprises most fencers. We dig the MIDDLE post BEFORE the intermediate posts. Or if there are 3-4 transitions, we dig at the peak of each change of direction in the ground.

Most crews go: end posts → bottom string → top string → dig all the intermediate posts in order from one end to the other.

We go: end posts → bottom string (find transitions) → caterpillar set-out → bottom string OFF → MIDDLE post → both strings up between 3 posts → eye-trick → intermediate posts.

The middle post matters because of one physics problem: string lines sag.

Take the bottom string OFF first.

We had it up to find transitions. Now it comes down so we can dig the middle post without fighting it.

This feels backwards (we just put it up!) but trust the order. We'll put both strings back up in a minute. With the middle post in, they won't sag.

Find the centre. Use the full caterpillar.

Lay ALL the rails out end-to-end with 10mm gaps. The centre of that full caterpillar is where the middle post goes.

Tape measures lie. Rails don't. The middle of the caterpillar IS the middle of the run, by definition.

Dig the middle post. Concrete. Plumb left-right.

Same depth and method as the end posts. Same rapid set bag + water + pack.

Why this matters.

String lines sag over long runs. Even tight ones. Pull a string between two posts 20 metres apart, even pulled tight as a guitar string, it droops in the middle. Maybe 10mm. Maybe 30mm. Get someone to eye the line for you, or eye it yourself after. Where you tie off matters too. Top of the screw or bottom of the screw can be 5mm different. That little 5mm can make the line dead straight.

A middle post anchors the strings so they can't sag.

Without it, the fence belly-flops in the middle. The whole line is wrong by the time you reach the other end.

WITH the middle post, the strings stay dead straight. The whole run is true.

Lesson 3.7

The Eye-Trick + Tie Off

THE LESSON

You've got three posts in the ground now. Two end posts and a middle post. Time to put both strings back up.

But here's the trick most fencers stuff up.

A tight string still sags. Doesn't matter how hard you pull it. Gravity wins. Pull a string between two posts 20 metres apart, even pulled tight as a guitar string, it'll droop in the middle. Maybe 10mm. Maybe 30mm. Either way. If you tie it off at the middle post where it's sagging, your fence will follow that sag.

The eye-trick fixes it in 5 seconds.

How it works.

1. Bottom string up between end posts. Tight. Don't tie to the middle post yet.
2. Top string up between end posts. Same deal.
3. Stand back. Look down the bottom string. You'll see the sag in the middle.
4. Lift the string with your eye. Imagine where it SHOULD sit if there was no sag. That's the line your fence will follow.
5. Tie off at the middle post at that "no-sag" height.
6. Repeat for the top string.

That's it. Strings can't sag now. The middle post anchors them at the correct, straight height.

One thing to watch. Don't pull the strings so tight they bend the end posts out of plumb. Best to concrete and screw end posts to a junction or fixed point first. Or put a screw at the right height on the end post, run the string to touch it, then anchor the far end to a nail or screw on another fence, a fixed post, anywhere solid. That way the tension's against something fixed, not against your nice new end post.

Why this matters.

Without the eye-trick, your fence belly-flops in the middle. Customer rings two weeks later complaining about a wobbly fence line. That's a callback. That's a Saturday.

With the eye-trick, the fence is dead straight end to end. Customer doesn't know what we did. But they'll know what they see. A perfectly straight fence.

THE LESSON

End posts. Middle post. Both strings up and tied off at all three. Now we dig the rest.

Work outwards from the middle in both directions.

Two teams, two halves, working in parallel. Left team starts at the middle post and works left. Right team starts at the middle post and works right. They'll never meet (each end is already done).

This is the productivity unlock from the middle post. Use it.

Hole depth depends on fence height. Same standards from Lesson 3.1:

• 1.2m fence: 600mm deep, 200mm wide
• 1.5m fence: 600mm deep, 200mm wide
• 1.8m fence: 600mm deep, 200mm wide
• 2.1m and over: 700mm minimum, 200mm wide
• Gate posts: 600-800mm, 200mm wide

Cylinder holes only. 200mm diameter. Auger if you can, hand-dug if you can't.

Gate post tip: dig the hole 100-200mm deeper than a normal post. Gate posts take a lot more load over time, especially heavy gates. Extra depth means extra hold.

Plumb every post LEFT-RIGHT only.

Plumb across the width of the fence. The string line handles the in-line direction.

Why? Because the string line tells you the in-line position. The level tells you the left-right.

Two different jobs. Two different tools. Don't mix them up.

If you try to plumb posts BOTH ways, you'll fight the string line. The post wants to lean toward where you're pushing with the level. Just plumb across the fence (left-right). Trust the string to handle the line direction.

Posts BETWEEN string lines, not on them.

Don't push the string out with the post. The string is your reference, not a contact point.

If you push the string with each post you set, the line bows out. By the end of the run, your posts won't be straight. The posts sit close to the string but never touch it.

Rapid set. Pack. Move on.

Same method as Lesson 3.2. Don't sit watching it set. Crack on with the next post.

Lesson 3.9

Sleepers (Colorbond vs Timber)

THE LESSON

All posts are in. Time for sleepers. Sleepers sit between every pair of posts as the kickboard. No gaps under the fence. Sleepers go in BEFORE the rails.

Two systems. Don't mix them up.

The cut and the install method are different depending on the fence type.

COLORBOND fences. Sleeper slots BETWEEN posts.

• Sleeper length = rail length MINUS 20mm
• Oxworks rail 2410mm → cut sleeper to 2390mm
• Ourtown rail 2370mm → cut sleeper to 2350mm
• The 20mm gap is 10mm play either side. Sleeper drops in clean.

The sleeper sits between the two post faces, with a tiny bit of play either side so it can drop in.

TIMBER fences. Sleeper FACE-FIXES against posts.

• Sleeper length = post centre to post centre. Cut exactly to that length.
• Sleeper butts against the NEXT sleeper, not the post.
• Raked timber: SCRIBE-CUT the ends so the sleeper face sits PLUMB against the post.

Different system entirely. The sleeper doesn't slot between posts. It face-fixes against them. The post face is what the sleeper attaches to.

Why timber butts against the next sleeper, not the post.

Timber shrinks over months. A tight butt joint now becomes a 5-10mm gap in 3-6 months. That's normal. Don't try to caulk it or jam them tighter. If a customer rings about the gap, explain it's natural timber movement. The fence is still doing its job.

Drop the sleeper in. LOW side first if raked.

On a sloped run, the low side goes in FIRST. Then lever the high side in.

Try to drop the high side in first and the sleeper jams against the next post. Low side in, then pivot the high side down. Slides in clean every time.

Sleeper sits 180mm ABOVE ground level. 20mm BELOW.

Top of sleeper is 180mm above the dirt line. Bottom is 20mm below. Total exposed height around 180mm above ground, with the 20mm tucked under to seal off the bottom.

Why the 20mm below? Stops mice, dogs, and kids' toys getting under the fence. Also locks the sleeper in place so it can't be kicked out from underneath.

Sometimes a second sleeper on top.

If the customer wants a taller base (extra retention, hide a slope), stack a second sleeper above the first.

Two-high sleeper bases are charged EXTRA. Make sure the quote covers it before you stack a second one.

Lesson 3.10

Rails (Positioning + LHS-Only Screws)

THE LESSON

Posts are all in. Sleepers are in. Time for rails.

Two big things to learn in this lesson. Rail positioning (the measurements). And the LHS-only screwing technique (the trick that makes sheeting fast).

Rail positioning. Mark BEFORE you screw anything.

Different rules for Colorbond and Timber.

COLORBOND: Rail span from top of top rail to bottom of bottom rail.

For a 1.8m fence the span is 1810mm. For a 2.1m fence it's 2110mm. The manufacturer states the rail height for each profile. Use that.

Why 1810 (or 2110)? Sheet is 1790mm (or 2090mm). Rails are 40mm high. Sheet sits INSIDE the rail channels (top and bottom), with about 30mm of lap into each rail. That's 75% engagement, minimum. The 10mm at the back of each rail is the CLEARANCE, not the lap. If you only lap 10mm, the sheet falls out the bottom. Get the rail span right and the sheet sits deep in the channel where it should.

TIMBER (3-rail): 100 / 800 / 800 / 100mm spacing.

Standard paling sizes: 1800mm or 2100mm.

• Top rail: 100mm below paling top
• Middle rail: 800mm below top rail
• Bottom rail: 800mm below middle rail
• Paling overhangs bottom rail by 100mm

The 100mm overhang at top hides any rail screw holes and gives a clean top line. The 100mm overhang at bottom means no light gap, and the sleeper sits behind it. Two 800mm gaps between the 3 rails keep palings stiff against wind and kids leaning on them.

Make a template that matches the rail spacing. Use it on every post. Mark only the install side of the post, not all the way around. Faster, cleaner, no pencil marks visible from the other side.

Now the BIG one. LHS-only screws for Colorbond.

This is the trick most fencers don't know. Changes the whole install.

Start at one end post. Work towards the other. Don't start in the middle. Don't work both ends in.

Top rail follows the top string line. Bottom rail follows the bottom string line. Lay against the string. (Yes, we put both strings up between three posts a few lessons back. They're still there.)

COLORBOND: Screw the LHS only at every post. Leave RHS loose.

LHS = left when looking from your work side. Only the LEFT screw goes in at each post. Right side stays loose.

Why? We're about to slot sheets in. The loose right side of each rail lets us LIFT the RHS of the rail UP off the top of the post, slot the sheet into the rail channel, then drop the rail back DOWN onto the post. Always lifting UP from the top of the post, never down. If we screw both sides tight now, the sheets can't slot in. Don't worry. RHS screws go in AFTER everything is sheeted and eyed.

TIMBER: Both sides screwed. No hook trick needed.

Timber palings face-fix to the rails as you go. Different sheeting method (covered in next lesson). For timber, fully screw the rails on both sides now.

Cut post tops with a slight fall.

Whether it's timber or Colorbond, a slight fall on the post top stops water pooling. Doesn't have to be much, just enough that water runs off.

On a level fence, cut the post flush with the height of the top rail. On a raked fence, cut it at the higher side of the raking angle. Square cut still works for the cap to sit.

NEVER cut the post flat and dead level. Cap won't shed water. Water pools. Post rots from the top down.

Cold Cut Metal Saw for Colorbond on a rake. Cleanest cut, no paint burn, no rust. NEVER use a recip or a grinder. Both burn the paint and the rail rusts within months.

Lesson 3.11

Sheets, Palings, Eye-It-Lock-It-Off, Gates

THE LESSON

This is where most fencers go wrong. They screw everything as they go. The 247 way is the opposite. Build it loose. Eye it. Then lock it.

COLORBOND SHEETS (with the hook trick)

Start at the LEFT end. Lap AGAINST the wind.

Work left to right along the run. Prevailing wind from the west? Lap each sheet so the wind hits the closed edge, not the open one.

Wind under an open lap edge lifts the sheet and rattles it. Lap with the wind direction so the wind pushes the sheet TIGHT to the next one.

Eye the first sheet plumb against the LHS end post. The C posts should already be plumb, so just eye it against the post. First sheet sets the run. Get this one looking right.

For sheet 2: lift the RHS of the top rail UP just enough for the sheet to slide in.

Lift only as much as you need. Slide sheet 2 in. Then tap the rail back down. Drop it onto one side of the C post. Don't let it drop lower than the top of the C post.

For sheet 3 and every sheet after: same step.

Lift the rail just enough. Slot the sheet. Tap the rail back down. Never lower than the top of the C post.

This is faster with two people. One handles the rail. One slots the sheet.

Tap the top rail down to seat the sheet. Rubber mallet or hand. Don't whack it with a hammer. Sheet sits tight in the channel with the rail pressing on top.

NO sheet screws yet. NO RHS rail screws yet. Move to the next sheet.

Why no screws yet? Because we want to eye the whole run before we lock anything off. Sheets don't slide once they're in the channels, but the rails can still be adjusted. Keep it flexible until eye-time.

Last sheet often needs a RIP cut. If the panel is shorter than the factory rail length, rip-cut the sheet to fit. Cut Colorbond sheets with the Cold Cut Metal Saw. Never a recip. Never a grinder.

One more rule. Keep timber with timber. Colorbond with Colorbond. Don't mix profiles in one panel. Looks wrong, doesn't seal right.

TIMBER PALINGS (different method, no hook trick)

String line for the paling tops, or use a paling template.

Two ways to set the top line. Either tie a string at the finished paling height for every paling top to kiss. Or use a paling template we sometimes make and butt the palings up to that. Onsite staff will show you which one we're using for this job.

On a raked timber fence, the top edge of the railing just kisses the string. Same trick, follows the rake.

Nail order: middles first, then plumb-check, then nail off.

Don't nail every paling fully as you go. The 247 way:

1. Nail the MIDDLE rail only for each paling as you put it up.
2. After every 6 to 9 palings, put the level on the edge and check plumb.
3. If it's plumb, nail those 6 to 9 palings off properly. Top rail, middle rail, bottom rail. Two nails per rail per paling.
4. If it's drifted, swivel the palings back to plumb (the middle-only nail lets them swivel), then nail off.

Why? Nailing only the middle first lets you swivel each paling back to plumb. Nail all 3 rails as you go and any drift is locked in. Customer ends up with a wonky fence line.

For the rails to palings: gun nailer is fine. For rails to posts: 100mm Type 17 batten screws.

Paling spacing depends on whether it's single-skin (butted) or double-skin.

• Single-skin butted: mark 150mm centres on the rails. Each paling goes on a centre line. Gap between palings ends up around 50mm.
• Double-skin: first skin same as above (150mm centres, 50mm gaps). Second skin marks at 25mm from the first skin's edge, butted to cover the gaps. NEVER lap palings, always butt them to each other.

If a paling needs cutting (raked tops, trimming): Flick a chalk line straight across the paling tops. Cut with a circular saw along the line. For the cleanest finish, use a TRACK SAW with a flicked guide line. Customer sees the top line. Worth the extra minute.

EYE IT. THEN LOCK IT OFF.

This is where everything gets fixed permanently. Walk before you lock.

Stand at the LEFT end. Eye the run. Look down the line. Are the sheet tops flush? Are the rails straight? Any sheet drifted out of plumb?

Walk to the RIGHT end. Eye the run back. Same check from the other direction. Different angle catches different problems.

Fix anything that's off. Sheet drifted? Slide it back. Rail not sitting flush? Tap it. Sheet at the wrong height? Lift and reseat. Now is the time.

Once you put screws in, you can't easily adjust without un-screwing and risking damaged holes. If you do end up with an old hole that's now in the wrong spot, put a screw in the hole anyway to seal it. Otherwise rust gets in. Eyeing twice from both ends catches what one walk misses.

Happy with the run? Screw the RHS of every rail. Now you can lock the RHS rail screws at every post. The rails are properly fixed.

Screw the sheets off. 5 screws per sheet per rail. Top rail, middle rail (if 3-rail), bottom rail. Don't over-tighten. Over-tightening Colorbond sheets pushes the screw head through the rib and rusts inside the sheet. Drives the customer mad in 6 months. Screw it snug. Stop.

GATES, CAPPING, FINISH

Pre-make the gate frame to suit the sheet or paling size. For Colorbond, build the frame to fit a sheet width. For timber, work to paling width. Example: 9 palings is almost 900mm. Plan for 10 to 15mm clearance each side to the post depending on which lock we're using. Doesn't matter if you pre-make or measure on site, just make sure the gaps work for the lock.

Hinge side first. Always. Hang the gate on the hinges before fitting the latch. Adjust hinges until the gate hangs square.

Drop bolt BEFORE the latch. Drop bolt goes in the ground first. Hammer a 100mm bit of PVC into the ground for the bolt to slot into. Drop bolt stops the gate swinging when the wind comes up. PVC sleeve stops the bolt rusting in the dirt. Customer will never know what we did but it'll work for 20 years.

Latch last. Adjust to close gently. Gate should swing closed under its own weight or with a light push. Latch should click without forcing.

Capping. Post tops. Saddles. Top cap goes on after sheets. Post caps after capping. Saddles on any cut post tops. Set every post cap with a dab of sealant. Wind will lift unfilled caps off within a year and the customer will ring asking where they went.

📝 Chapter Quiz

The install is done right. Now we close the day properly.

Read it. Use it. Get better.